Thursday , February 22 2018
Home > Shop Tips > Adding a Quick Change Tool Post (QCTP) to a Grizzly G0602 10×22 Lathe

Adding a Quick Change Tool Post (QCTP) to a Grizzly G0602 10×22 Lathe

My first modification after buying my G0602 was to add a Quick Change Tool Post. QCTP’s have many advantages, including quick and easy tool changes, consistant tool height setting, and safety (sharp tools sticking out in 4 directions from a standard 4-way tool post can be a painful way to learn a lesson!).

Anyway, adding a QCTP to the G0602 is very simple, as long as you  access to a milling machine to mill the plate that fits in the t-slot. Here’s a video of the process.

If you don’t have a milling machine you could figure out a way to hold the plate in your 4-way tool post and use an end mill held in the chuck (or better yet held in an end mill holder that fits the taper of your lathe spindle). But you’re best bet is to use a mill to modify the plate to fit your t-slot.

One final thing, your QCTP probably came with a plate to modify as mine did. But my plate was a bit short, so I fabricated my own out of a piece of scrap. Doing so requires you to also have a proper tap handy. That tap size may vary depending on who made your QCTP, but just keep that in mind if you decide to make your own plate rather than modify the one the tool post comes with. I purchased my tap for about $12 from a local supplier (no shipping). You could probably get one for about the same price from an online supplier + shipping. If it’s a size you think you’ll use a lot moving forward, go ahead and purchase a high-quality tap. But if not, go with a cheap tap. I haven’t used my tap since adding the QCTP over two years ago, so the cheapest tap they made was perfect!

As an alternative to buying a tap, you could also single point the internal threads on the plate, but that’s a whole ‘nother ball of wax, and somewhat outside of the scope of a beginner-level modification. But if someone does single point their plate, please post a comment with pictures &/or video of your modification.

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About Tyler

Tyler is a hobby machinist and 3D printing aficionado. He teaches computer programming and web development at Highline College near Seattle. Tyler founded Projects In Metal in 2008 because he was frustrated by the lack of free plans available for hobby machinists.

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23 comments

  1. Tyler great info     i made a new post for mine using a piece of 5/8″ round stock. first brought down to size then single pointing the threads on both ends.  which in my post i stated the wrong thread size for the stock plate there m10 x 1.5

     

    didnt turn out too bad but i didnt take any while i was doing it

     

    G0602 tool post Image Enlarger

    Post on the left was the one that came with the QCTP  from CDCO

     

    tool post partsImage Enlarger

    stock plate  on top then my tool post  notice shorter over all length and longer length of threads

     

    the M10 threads are really tricky to cut the carriage feed is very fast especially for the short distance you will be cutting. i ended up using a die to cut them

     

    sorry for the bad photos i took them with my phone

    Blame

  2. I am going to just drill the stock plate out to 12.5mm and tap it m14x1.5 to fit the post from the actor =]

  3. My local hardware store had M14x1.25 and M14x2.0 taps, but didn't have the M14x1.5 tap.  Dang.

  4.  http://www1.mscdirect.com/eCom…..tPrice_MSC|0&searchandizedOk=Y#productsContent

     

     

     prolly the cheapest tap online  might be able to find something cheaper on ebay

     

    http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_n…..m270.l1313

  5. titaniumboy said:

    My local hardware store had M14x1.25 and M14x2.0 taps, but didn't have the M14x1.5 tap.  Dang.

    luckily i thought of it right before i placed an order with northern tools for some cutting fluid and metric drill bits. i think it was like $10 there for it.

    got my lathe and bandsaw in today. bandsaw is setup and i took some stuff off the lathe to get started on cleaning it up so i am closer to being ready to use it when i have a buddy come help me get it on the workbench. and holy crap people werent joking when they said the chuck is stuck on there, i tried for a couple mins and quick cuz i knew it would get me all pissed off. time to look at all the ways people did it and come up with a new plan.

  6. chuck a length of stock in the chuck  some use a 2 x 4 i used a 1/2″ x 48″ square stock. making a spanner wrench is best but anything in the spindle hole will work i used a hardened drive pin then used a piece of 1 x 4 to protect the ways of the bed. striking the the 1/2″ rod with a 3 lb hammer a couple times and the chuck came loose 

     

    Blame

  7. isnt it screwed on though? not seeing how that will get it loose without turning it

  8. It's about intertia Jeremy, there is often enough mass in the spindle and resistance in friction along the way to resist a sudden shock loading. It has to be hit sharply.

  9. Image Enlarger

    heres a picture of how i removed the chuck  1 is your spindle lock (make you use something to protect the ways)

    2. is the a piece of stock chucked in the lathe ( make sure you remove the 2 chuck retainers)

    the green arrow  is the direction you want to turn the chuck 

     

    Jerry is right you have to strike it sharply

     

    Blame

  10. Ahh, well if it has a spindle lock then much easier. Perhaps some caution on that one then, the initial removal may effect the tommy bar a bit, so perhaps a temporary one would be good if it's real stubborn.

  11. yeah for some reason i was thinkin you meant to chuck something like you would if you were turning thats why i was thinking how pounding would have any effect on it

  12. we kinda got off topic in this one  tyler is there away to split the topics

  13. It's not uncommon for folk to clout the chuck key in it's socket to loosen a chuck. Not a good idea on a lathe chuck though, it could snap the square off like a carrot.

  14. Jeremy,

    The chuck on my G0602 was also stuck really good.  Using tips from the Yahoo group, I used a heat gun on the chuck as close to the spindle threads as I could get.  I kept turning the chuck to distribute the heat as best as I could.  After 2-4 minutes of applying heat, the chuck was getting pretty warm.  The chuck came off pretty easy after that.

    Whatever it is that the manufacturer uses to minimize corrosion for the ocean trip, it sets up like glue.  The heat evidently melted enough of this goop that it released its tenacious grip.

  15. finally got it off even though i screwed up the holes pretty good, woohoo.

     

    but yes back onto topic. as soon as i get the lathe set up the first thing i will probably do is throw on the 4 chuck and drill the stock t slot piece and tap it for the axa tool post. thinking i may buy a wedge soon as playing with this one it seems there is no stop to it so you just gotta crank it til it is tight or else it retracts? i know the wedge goes out to a stop.

  16. Blame,

    Thanks for the links to M14x1.25 taps at MSC and eBay.

  17. No Problem   titaniumboy just remember M14 x 1.5

     

    Blame

  18. I drilled out the base plate with a 1/2″ drill bit.  The recommended drill for a 75% thread was 12.5 mm, but the 1/2″ drill bit was only 0.008″ larger, so I went with that.

    I know better than to try and rush things but that's exactly what I did when I tried to tap the base plate in class the other day.  I only had a couple of minutes, and so I rushed the job.  Of course I botched it, although I think I can still salvage it.  We have a manual tapping stand similar to the one pictured below, although ours doesn't seem to have the vise portion.

    Image Enlarger

    I installed the M14x1.5 tap in the tapping stand and proceeded to start the tap.  Since there wasn't a vise, I foolishly let the part simply bump up against a stop pin in order to stop the part from spinning.  By the way, a large tap like this requires a LOT of force.

    I didn't realize until I was several turns into the tapping process that the part, even though it wasn't spinning around, had ridden up crookedly on the tap and was now tilted.  Drat and double drat and frickenfratz.

    My plan is now to properly clamp the base plate down, like I should have done in the first place, and try tapping from the opposite side.  That and public humiliation.

  19. Depending on how crooked it is, it's probably fine. You're using it to forcefully hold the QCTP to the compound, so if it's bent a little, it will bend back straight as you tighten it down … as long as it's not bent too much. 

    As for using a slightly oversized drill, I commonly do that. The difference in thread strength is minimal, but the hole is easier to tap, especially in steel. 

  20. Talk about procrastination…

    I finally finished tapping the stock base plate to M14x1.5 with my Harbor Freight metric tap and die set.

    I was really nervous because of a couple of reasons.  First is that I wasn’t sure what the quality of the HF metric tap was going to be, and second I had already threaded about half of the hole crooked from my earlier botched attempt. I flipped the base plate over and started tapping from the non-boogered side. To my surprise the new M14x1.5 thread ended up looking beautiful.  So these taps are good for more than just cleaning up existing threads and they can definitely cut new threads from scratch.

    I clamped the base plate in the vice on my Grizzly G0704 milling machine.  I centered the spindle over the existing hole as best as I could by eye (I didn’t take the couple of extra minutes to indicate it in properly like I should have).  I put a tapered dead center into a 3/4″ R8 collet, and used this to keep the metric tap perpendicular to the hole.  Unfortunately the tap holders that came with the HF tap and die set were too large to use with the tapered dead center, so I ended up using a adjustable wrench (Crescent wrench in the US) to turn the tap.  I used lots of tapping fluid, and it took a surprising amount of effort to turn the tap.  I kept downward pressure with the mill quill handle until the tap was well on its way. 1/4 turn forward, and then 1/8 turn back, ad nauseum.

    Kind of backwards, but I then chamfered both sides of the threaded hole.

    …………………

    On a separate note, does anyone know what is the purpose of the two setscrews on the stock base plate?  I’ve lost one of the setscrews and I don’t want to replace it if it serves no function.  The blank base plate that came with the QCTP didn’t have these setscrews, and the parts diagram in the G0602 manual doesn’t show these setscrews.

     

    Titaniumboy

  21. Gratz on the new QCTP!

    I don’t use the old set screws. They just scar up the slot. I think they were for making sure that your 4-way didn’t move around, but they seemed pretty useless (and even damaging) to me, so I didn’t tap my new QCTP plate for them.

  22. Tyler,

    Thanks for the info on the set screws.

    My cross slide has a pin which has a 45 degree end on it, but the bottom of my QCTP (from CDCO) has a corresponding hole on the wrong side, so I just removed the pin and the spring that was underneath it. Should I be worried about this?

    Since I had been taking CNC courses lately, it had been awhile since I had been in the manual machining class.  My 3/8″ HSS lathe tool that I had ground in the first couple of days had been with me over several manual machining classes, but it went missing (stolen by the night class !) one day near the end of the term.  The instructor only had 5/8″ HSS tool blanks, so I went to town on grinding a lathe tool.  Holy cow, but a 5/8″ HSS tool is a LOT bigger than the 3/8″ HSS tools I was used to.  There had to be at least 6 times the amount of metal that needed to be ground away.  The resulting lathe tool was too large to get on center on the BXA QCTP on the school lathes, so I ground the bottom down to 1/2″ on the Blanchard grinder.

    Fast forward to last week when I finished up my QCTP and was ready to cut the first chips on my G0602.  I inserted the 5/8″ lathe tool, but it ended up being around 1/16″ too high to get on center.  I was faced with two choices: 1) grind a new tool bit from the 3/8″ HSS tool blanks that I now have, or 2) mill down the bottom of the QCTP holder with my G0704 mill.  Actually there was a third choice.Embarassed  I decided to cut my first chips with that massive 5/8″ tool bit knowing that it wasn’t on center, and that the finish wouldn’t be the greatest, and that it would not be healthy for the tool bit.

    I started out with 0.010″ cut on the cross slide and it didn’t slow the machine down one bit.  I graduated up to 0.025″, and then 0.040″.  Ditto on the machine not sweating over the cut.  On to 0.050″. No problemo.  Just to be a masochist, I then let the lathe do 0.080″.  The chips started coming out straw colored, and I knew that I should stop abusing the lathe and HSS tool bit.  Then is when I got quite a shock – I measured the difference in diameters just cut and I came up with 0.160″!!?!.  It turns out that the G0602 cross slide is calibrated for actual cross slide travel instead of the more common (at least on the school lathes) practice of the cross slide being calibrated for diameter.  My little toy lathe just cut 0.160″ diameter?!?  What a little beast the G0602 is!  Now I grant that I didn’t cut 0.160″ for more than a 1/2″ to 3/4″, and it boogered up the tip of my lathe tool a little, but still I am very, very impressed.

    So to solve my problem of not having a proper lathe tool bit, I then decided to go with option 2 and cut the bottom of one of the QCTP holders on my G0704 mill.  To my surprise, the CDCO QCTP holder was exceedingly hard and I ended up ruining one of my 5/8″ HSS endmill trying to mill the bottom.  Perhaps carbide tooling would cut the QCTP holder, but I don’t yet have any carbide in my tool arsenal.

    So I ended up finally going with option 1 and grinding up a new 3/8″ HSS tool bit from scratch like I should have done in the beginning.  The surface finish on the cut ended up being much nicer, but still nothing to write home about.  The 1″ diameter steel rod I was cutting is one I had bought from a scrap yard, so I really don’t know what mild steel alloy I was faced with.  Later I had to make a bushing spacer for my HF 4×6 bandsaw, and the surface finish on the rigid steel conduit that I used for raw stock had a much nicer finish.

    I love my QCTP!!

    Titaniumboy

  23. I had the same pin and spring. I can’t remember exactly what it was for, but I think my 4-way had notched in the bottom of it at about 15 degree intervals. So the pin probably served as some sort of (useless?) stop. I removed the pin and spring and have not missed it.

    1/2″ is about the largest tooling you can use with the G0602 because anything larger (as you’ve noticed) will be too tall to get on centerline.

    About the straw-colored chips. If the lathe wasn’t laboring there’s nothing wrong with your chips changing color. If the lathe can handle it than feel free. For me thicker chips seem to pull the heat away with them (rather than the heat staying in the part) and they seem to break more readily so that I don’t get long stringy chips. So my chips are often discolored.

    I think the most I’ve cut so far was about .050 (so .100 dia) in cast iron. With the diamond tool holder it was easy to do. But I think with a traditional HSS tool I wouldn’t have attempted it.

    I usually don’t try to take too aggressive of a cut, however, because I’m typically not in a hurry.

    Oh, and your tool holders are hardened so yea, they’ll be very difficult to mill unless you were to anneal them. Buying smaller HSS blanks is a better idea. :)