Here’s a quick tip to bring in the new year. A novel way to remove a stripped or stubborn machine screw using a vise.

The idea is simple, a stripped screw tends to lead to problems with the screwdriver “camming out”. To prevent this, pinch the screw and the screwdriver (or in this case, the screwdriver bit or “blade”) between the jaws of a vise. Keep the jaws just tight enough to prevent the screwdriver from camming out as it turns. As the screw starts to rotate, loosen the jaws slightly to allow for it to extract.

Here’s a quick video of the process in action.

In situations where it’s hard to grip the handle of the screwdriver (because it’s in a vise) I recommend using a screwdriver with a square or hex shank so you can get a wrench on it for leverage, or use a bit or blade like I show in the picture and video. Don’t try vise grips on a round shank screwdriver, you’ll just muck it up. Some screwdrivers have a round shank with hex portion (called a “hex bolster”) where the shank meets the handle. This little hex bolster is ideal for getting a little extra leverage when needed.

Screwdrivers with a hex bolster come in handy more often than you might think … if you remember to use it! I’ve started replacing all my cheap, damaged, or worn out screwdrivers with better ones that have a hex bolster near the handle. Here’s a nice set on Amazon by Klein (click image).

There are obviously other methods of removing a stripped screw. Two of which have already been mentioned in responses to this video on YouTube. For instance, one viewer suggested cutting a slit in the head of the stripped screw to use a flat blade screwdriver, while another viewer suggested using an impact wrench (or the impact setting on a cordless drill)  which I have used with great success also.

Lets see how many other ways we can think of to remove a stripped screw. If you have a method, please leave it via a comment on the forum (see link below).

And Happy New Year!

To leave a comment join the forum discussion on this post

Quick Change Tool Posts (QCTP’s) are great, but once you own one you tend to start accumulating all sorts of tool holders. The problem is these holders can be bulky and take up a lot of drawer space, if they fit in a drawer at all (mine don’t fit in my Kennedy tool box as they are just a smidge too tall). So mine tend to reside on the edge of my chip tray where they get covered in swarf and oil.

Not ideal.

Luckily there are a few nifty storage solutions just waiting to be implemented. The first comes from Norman in Texas who was clever enough to make little dovetail brackets that he can secure to the wall. His first few brackets were milled, but now he’s casting them. Here’s what Norman’s brackets look like in use. The third one down from the top is an empty bracket:

But wait, there’s more!

After seeing Norman’s solution Alexander submitted a few of his own. Here’s a solution that Alex found on the web from DocsMachine.com.  Doc mounts his tool holders to the wall using a short rod (upper right highlighted in red – you can click the image to enlarge it). This seems to work well, but I think some J or Z channel would also work and might be sturdier and easier to mount.

And here’s Alexander’s personal solution, consisting of a piece of plastic angle bolted to his backsplash. I like the idea of plastic or aluminum angle instead of steel since there’s no chance of them damaging the dovetail on the tool holders.

If you’d like to read the original forum post or submit your own solution, please visit the forum post here:

QCTP Tool Storage Solutions

My first modification after buying my G0602 was to add a Quick Change Tool Post. QCTP’s have many advantages, including quick and easy tool changes, consistant tool height setting, and safety (sharp tools sticking out in 4 directions from a standard 4-way tool post can be a painful way to learn a lesson!).

Anyway, adding a QCTP to the G0602 is very simple, as long as you  access to a milling machine to mill the plate that fits in the t-slot. Here’s a video of the process.

If you don’t have a milling machine you could figure out a way to hold the plate in your 4-way tool post and use an end mill held in the chuck (or better yet held in an end mill holder that fits the taper of your lathe spindle). But you’re best bet is to use a mill to modify the plate to fit your t-slot.

One final thing, your QCTP probably came with a plate to modify as mine did. But my plate was a bit short, so I fabricated my own out of a piece of scrap. Doing so requires you to also have a proper tap handy. That tap size may vary depending on who made your QCTP, but just keep that in mind if you decide to make your own plate rather than modify the one the tool post comes with. I purchased my tap for about $12 from a local supplier (no shipping). You could probably get one for about the same price from an online supplier + shipping. If it’s a size you think you’ll use a lot moving forward, go ahead and purchase a high-quality tap. But if not, go with a cheap tap. I haven’t used my tap since adding the QCTP over two years ago, so the cheapest tap they made was perfect!

As an alternative to buying a tap, you could also single point the internal threads on the plate, but that’s a whole ‘nother ball of wax, and somewhat outside of the scope of a beginner-level modification. But if someone does single point their plate, please post a comment with pictures &/or video of your modification.

To leave a comment join the forum discussion on this post