Anyway, adding a QCTP to the G0602 is very simple, as long as you  access to a milling machine to mill the plate that fits in the t-slot. Here’s a video of the process.

If you don’t have a milling machine you could figure out a way to hold the plate in your 4-way tool post and use an end mill held in the chuck (or better yet held in an end mill holder that fits the taper of your lathe spindle). But you’re best bet is to use a mill to modify the plate to fit your t-slot.

One final thing, your QCTP probably came with a plate to modify as mine did. But my plate was a bit short, so I fabricated my own out of a piece of scrap. Doing so requires you to also have a proper tap handy. That tap size may vary depending on who made your QCTP, but just keep that in mind if you decide to make your own plate rather than modify the one the tool post comes with. I purchased my tap for about $12 from a local supplier (no shipping). You could probably get one for about the same price from an online supplier + shipping. If it’s a size you think you’ll use a lot moving forward, go ahead and purchase a high-quality tap. But if not, go with a cheap tap. I haven’t used my tap since adding the QCTP over two years ago, so the cheapest tap they made was perfect!

As an alternative to buying a tap, you could also single point the internal threads on the plate, but that’s a whole ‘nother ball of wax, and somewhat outside of the scope of a beginner-level modification. But if someone does single point their plate, please post a comment with pictures &/or video of your modification.

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This is our first major video tutorial project with multiple camera views. We shot it in HD (1080p) with High Def cameras and then uploaded it to YouTube in HD (720p) which is as high a quality as YouTube will allow. But even at 720p the video is better than DVD quality.

Please leave your comments via the forum and let us know what you think. Our next videos will be on grinding your own HSS tooling (RH Tool, LH Tool, and Threading Tool), and then we plan to do a multi-cam video on single point threading.

However, your feedback is critical. We want to know your thoughts, good or bad. It would also be helpful to know if there are any other topics that you’d like to see made into videos.

Thanks!

Tyler and Barry

Video #1 of 2: Sharpening Twist Drills By Hand – Introduction

Video #2 of 2: Sharpening Twist Drills By Hand – Sharpening

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This question comes up occasionally on the forum and I’ve seen it addressed in books, but I’m not sure if I’ve ever seen a video of the process, so I decided to make one.

Setting up your lathe to take very fine cuts is a simple process. The quick version is this: By setting your compound at an angle of between 5° and 6° you’ll be able to use the dial on the compound as a very fine feed, advancing the tool in tenths for every thousandth you turn on the dial.

This is sometimes referred to as “Slewing the compound”. Although I’m not sure how technically accurate the term “to slew” is when talking about lathes. This could be slang for all I know and to make matters worse I’m not sure if it’s American slang or Brittish slang (as I have read dozens of books from both sides of the water), so be careful if you decide to break out the term in a shop full of machinists. You might get some funny looks.

I’ve seen this process described in multiple books, including the Machinist’s Bedside Reader by Guy Lautard, and in Lathework a Complete Course by Harold Hall. Both of which are excellent books. The first book by Lautard shows you the math behind the process I’ve outlined here and uses imperial (inch) measurements. The second book by Hall describes a slightly different method and is written for those who work in metric.

Anyway, if your compound is set at 5.75° and you advance the dial on your compound .001″, the tool bit advances toward the part .0001″ thus taking a very fine cut.

That’s as easy (or as complicated) as it gets. For most of you the image above will be enough of an explanation, but for those who require a little more reinforcement of the concept, here’s a “short” video of the process. I took 8 minutes to explain what should have taken 60 seconds. It seems I need to work on being succinct and not sounding deadpan. But hey, we all have our things to work on, right? Bueler … ?

Setting your compound to exactly 5.75° isn’t critical, somewhere between 5° and 6° will get you very close. You can also use this process for metric cuts.

Do you have a different method that you like to use? Please leave a comment on the forum. We’d like to hear it!

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Vernon Peterson came up with a great idea when he decided to build a base for his Magnetic Drill. Personally I’ve always wanted a Mag Drill, but I’ve never had a project that required one so it was a hard purchase to sneak past the wife. But with Vernon’s base I could totally justify adding a Mag Drill to my shop because it would double as a second drill press!

Here’s a video of Vernon’s creation:

Vernon originally posted this project to the forum here, but I liked the project so much I felt it needed to be featured on the home page.

I hope it inspires those of you who own a mag drill to pull it out, dust it off, and turn it into a more frequently used tool in your shop.

You can download plans to make your own below.

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Here’s a video of the attachment in action.

And here are a few pics.

I know what some of you Atlas purists are thinking. “How could anything be better than a Marvin?!” Well, for one thing, it’s available. I’ve never seen a Marving on eBay or anywhere else for sale (although they do supposedly show up for sale occassionally). And I’ve heard that when Marvin milling attachments do show up for sale they cost a fortune. Unless you’re a collector the Marvin isn’t practical. John’s attachment is.

Got a better idea for a vertical milling attachment conversion for an Atlas (or similar) horizontal mill? Share it with us by visiting the forum and leaving a comment/pictures/etc. We’d love to see it!

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You’ll also get a little humor along the way – something that is usually missing from most machining-related videos. What stones do you have in your toolbox? Feel free to add your “two cents” by visiting the forum topic related to this video.

Enjoy!

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Topic: Operating a Horizontal Milling Machine (Atlas MFC)
Level: Beginner
Format: DVD (2.5 hours)

Overall I think the video is definitely worth renting, especially for anyone who owns an Atlas mill, or anyone who is new to horizontal mills in general. However, more advanced machinists might find parts of the video a bit slow.

There are two projects included in the video. A saw arbor and a clamp block (basically a fixture plate) – both are of Rudy’s design. Plans for both projects are included with the video and Rudy spends the second half of the video showing how to make the clamp block step-by-step.

ProjectsInMetal readers can now sign up for Machinist University through SmartFlix and get the first month free! That’s a $23 value. There is no obligation and you can cancel at any time. I’ve been renting from SmartFlix for a few years now and I have never had anything other than positive experiences. Click on the link above or the image below for details.

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For example, 0.875 divided by .060 equals how many rotations of the tailstock handle? It’s ridiculous to me that I need to do math (even simple math) just to drill a hole to a depth of 0.875. If my tailstock had 100 graduations things would be a lot easier … but it doesn’t. It has 60.

60? Really?

Now, about the backlash. I know what you’re thinking. Who cares about backlash in a tailstock? Apparently I do. My psychiatrist and I are working on that …

And yes I realize that 99.9% of the time the depth of a hole isn’t a critical dimension – but I’d still wanted more control and accuracy out of my tailstock.

At least, that was the case. But no longer! With the exception of the short throw all the other issues with my tailstock were resolved with one simple stop that you can easily make in an evening.

This project is very simple. The only thing that I can see tripping someone up is remembering to create thread relief for the cap screw. When you drill and tap for the 1/4-20 cap screw, you’ll want to also drill a .250 thread relief  to the halfway point (where the slitting saw will eventually cut) so that the dial stop is only threaded on one of the two sides. If you thread both sides the two sides won’t draw together when you tighten the cap screw.

I didn’t draw up plans because of the simplicity of the project and because each person will need to scale the project up or down to fit the size of their lathe. I did, however, make a build video. Let me know what you think!

If you make your own please post pictures on the forum.

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I asked Jan to pick his most simple designs in each of 3 categories, Stirling, Flame Eater, and IC.  This set of plans is for his most simple IC design, a pressure controlled 2-stroke engine. If you’d like to see the other two designs shared by Jan, they can be found here: Jan’s Coffee Cup Stirling Engine and Jan’s Flame Sucker. And of course, all of Jan’s other engines can be found by visiting his site, which is written in both English and Dutch.

Here’s an animation and a description of the principle behind Jan’s masterpiece (excerpt from Jan’s site):

A ball valve only opens when the pressure below the ball is higher then above the ball. For the upper valve this is only the case, and for a very short time, when the piston reaches the exhaust port. The pressed gas mix below the piston and between the two ball valves is injected then, filling the cylinder and pushing out the remaining burned gases. Before and shortly after that moment the pressure above the ball in the upper valve is always higher then below the ball. When the piston is moving upwards there is an overpressure above the ball (gas mix compression) and a lower atmospheric pressure  of the sucked-in fresh gas mix below the ball. When the piston is moving downwards there is a high overpressure above the ball due to the combustion (power stroke) and a much lower overpressure of the compressed fresh gas mix below the ball. So also during that power stroke the upper ball valve keeps closed until the piston opens the exhaust port.

So the timing of the process is exactly right and automatically controlled by the alternating pressures in the system. That is why I called this engine the “Pressure controlled Two-stroke”.

Here’s a video of the engine in action:

For more information on this engine (including construction tips and trouble shooting) please visit Jan’s website. Jan also has many other engines on his site and he shares his plans freely with anyone by request.

I’d like to say Thank You one more time to Jan Ridders for sharing multiple sets of plans with this site. By sharing your plans you’ve helped this site grow.

[nms: stirling engine]

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I wanted to document the process I went through to make my cover but I didn’t want to rehash what Barry had already written, so instead I made a video of the process. So now you can read the steps (Barry’s article) or watch the steps (my video). Both provide you with a cheap, easy and fool-proof method of protecting every major tool in your shop with a custom-fit cover.

Obviously you can adapt this method to virtually any size or shape of lathe, mill, etc – you’ll just need to buy an appropriately sized tarp to make your pattern.

Here’s the video.

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