September 12, 2012
I've been trying to figure out locally where I can get some of the oil for the gear box. I know what is recommended but don't want to pay the shipping costs. So I've been searching for suggestions.
I've read some people are using ISO68 Hydraulic oil, I was thinking on the lines of Lucas hydraulic fluid from AutoZone $19.00
Note 1: <snip..snip> Adhesive and cohesive additives retards splattering and dripping and makes oil cling tenaciously to gears, bearings, bushings and other metal parts.
I've read where others have used 30w ND oil with Lucas Oil treatment added for the same reasons in Note 1:
What do you think?
January 9, 2009
Avoid oils with detergents or anything designed to keep particles in suspension. Such oils are designed to keep particles floating long enough to get trapped in the oil filter … which your lathe doesn't have.
Instead you want particles (metal shavings and sand particles from the casting process) to settle to the bottom of the gearbox where they will remain safely away from your gears.
That's why I decided to go ahead and buy the proper oil. But I did wait until Enco had a free shipping offer …
- REMEMBER: You need to subscribe to your posts so that you'll receive an e-mail update when a member replies.
- If you are having trouble posting pictures, be sure to visit the FAQ section of the forum for instructions.
- If you are having trouble viewing the forum posts, consider trying a different browser like Firefox or Chrome.
September 12, 2012
When I'm ready to do my gear oil change, do I need to flush the gear box out prior to refilling with new oil? if so, what is recommended to flush out the gear box?
Kerosene, some diesel fuel? ( which I have some diesel fuel used in my generator)?
October 11, 2010
Don't use any solvents in the gear box!
Its one thing to use kerosene to remove the packing grease form the outer surfaces the machine where its easy to allow for evaporation. However the enclosed areas in the gear box would be impossible to clear before adding the new oil. Mixing solvent with oil can be problem as reduces the viscosity of the new oil. Eventually should you leave the machine alone long enough the solvent will rise to the surface and offer no lubrication. Worse still if it makes an emulsion of oil and solvent, where you will get beads of oil separated by the solvent, that when the gears come together will evacuate the oil beads. When changing oil simply drain the old oil, doesn't matter if there is an 1/8" of old oil at the bottom. The goal is to remove as much of the fillings as possible, if need be pour a half pint of new oil down in to the drain.
Most Users Ever Online: 93
Currently Browsing this Page:
Alexander m: 448
Mtw fdu: 392
Guest Posters: 5
Newest Members: azazel85, whiterover, woof359, ukrop212, ukrop21, slowcx96, hyperion666, lee28, giacos, concrete donkey, jumeres, casestudies, synapse13, sydders667, sunflower01, Bobby Bradford, SysaninKZ, Nishka, juan sabato, MitchCBR
Moderators: snigit (1), madreptillian (99), Jerry (590), rleete (176)
Administrators: Tyler (2172), Mr Papa (0)