I have another project I want to try. Build a speed reducer sheave to get the spindle speed down to around 40 to 50 rpms.

I hope to be able to make it all fit inside of the gear change cabnit and not need to be removed to operate the lathe at the higher speeds.

 I may even have an idea to use gears but I'll probably try using sheaves and belts first.

I hope to be able to do it using all home made parts or only buy belts and bearing unless I can find some in my junk I have.

But it will have to wait. I have a long trip to take. I'm going to fly to Los Angles,Ca. then drive with my son to Florida we will be in Florida for over 3 weeks then return to Ca. and fly back home. While we are there the Space Shuttle is supposed to be launched on Feb. 24 I hope I get to see that. I really like very loud,fast things,if it flies that's all the better.

Well see you guys later keep making cool things!

Norman

Hey Everyone

I'm in Florida with the kid we will do our last show this week end then head back to La., Ca. an easy 3 to 4 day drive?

I got to see the Shuttle fly into space, around 7,000,000 lbs. of thrust on take off! The fire coming out of the end was amazing!

I've been drawing sketches of how to make the speed reducer, one guy on Yahoo groups 10x22 lathes put up a speed reducer made from small engine timing gears some of the same stuff I made the reverse tumbler gears with so I may cheat and borrow some of his ideas. I like doing things the easy way if and when I can plus the parts are cheap. His way of reducing the speed is with just the cam gear and the crank gear even part of the crank shaft is used. One problem is using it that way will require the lathe's motor to run in reverse due to using only 2 gears in the train. I want  to add one more gear so it's not needed to run the lathe motor in reverse. The speeds can be reduced even more by using different sheaves, I think this all may be made using easy to make plates or castings. I hope to make it all fit inside of the lathe's belt cabinet and not need to be removed when not in use. 

Right now the slowest speed on the G0602 is 150 rpm. using the timing gears will reduce the speed by around 1/2 so making it go slower will require some sheave sizing  work unless 75 rpms would be slow enough? So if any of you guys want to check out Yahoo's 10x22 lathe group, you will need to join to see the info but it's free and there is a bunch of guys that play with the Grizzly G0602 lathe.

Norman

 Titaniumboy, To answer your question, no unless the motor on this lathe poo's the bed. I did look at the pulley set up made with built in reduction gearing. I have more time than money that's why I'm making this speed reduction gear box,I want to see if I can just for fun.

I'm back home, my wife got me a new lap top with windows 7, still learning how to use it? My old lap top crashed big time took a hit from something, I think a virus that knocked it out. I have it at a college and it's being fixed by the students so I'll use it only to tune and trouble shoot my Harley Davidson.

Now to the speed reducer, I changed directions on this, instead of using all sheaves to change the speed I borrowed some from another guys post on yahoo groups. I took a set of timing gears from a briggs engine again (I like these gears they are cheap and easy to get) I made a pattern of wood and cast the frame for the gears using aluminum. I used 2 small gears (off the crank) and one cam gear, cut off the cam lobes and still in the process of trying to make it all fit the lathe. This seems to be turning into a kind of hard project cause I'm again shooting from the hip, no plans other than sketches and real rough one at that.

Photos of my mess

trying to get all the gears in a small space. I used 3 gears so the rotation will be correct from in put to out put shafts.

The mdf plate will become the pattern for the 2 casting .

modified gears. 2 small timing gears and one cam shaft with the cam lobs ground off then the remaining shaft machined.

The top gear has been fitted with a steel insert welded in. This gear will soon have a shaft brazed on and run in the skate board bearing, it will be the input shaft. The cam gear has a out board bearing from I think a small china engine? The in board bearing is from a small wheel roller bearing with the retaining clip removed. The bottom gear has been bored and a skate board bearing pressed in it is the idler gear.

There was a different photo below messing with photobucket I accidentally deleted it so….

This is one side of the cast frames in the early stages of machining. I tell why the  2 ends were cut off later on.

 I learned not to mess with the photos in photobucket. The missing photo was one of the cast frames fresh out of the sand with some strange looking vent holes, just trying a different way of venting the sand, the cast part had cone shaped vent holes.

both frames on the lathe boring the bearing holes I used bearings that I had so not all of them are the same size.

I used some steel to balance out the swinging mess plus had to cut off some of the frame so it would clear the lathe's bed, shooting from the hip engineering or redneck engineering. Boring with a cheap harbor freight boring tool, had to work the boring tool over so it would work. I won't buy a set of turning tools like these again all of them where not made right. I think they were on sale cheap less than $10.00 now I know why. But with some heat and a diamond grinding tool in the dremel they will work. I'll never learn not to buy cheap stuff.

Blane

I used timing gears out of a small 5hp briggs engine. Go to a small engine shop and ask for a few trashed 5 hp engines horizontal crank shaft engines are the ones you want. You might be able to get the parts from someone who races go karts

try to get the models that have removable small gears on the cranks, some cranks have the small gear cast on the crank but you can cut the crank down to get the gears its just more work , some 3.5 hp engines will also have the removable timing gears on the crank.

You can use either horizontal or vertical shaft engines, newer over head valved engines will have a cam with a plastic gear and the lobes will be plastic they will work good. For a 3 gear train you will need 2 trashed engines of the same size to keep the ratio correct 2 to 1 reduction.

more

this is the mounting lug. I plan on boring a slot for a 5/16" bolt or stud to mount this on the lathes steel plate.

these next 2 photos are where I hope this will all fit. It is just setting sort of where it will go. I may take the lathes plate off to drill the mounting hole.

This is going to be a tight fit I've whittled on the gear box quite a bit, but it is going to fit with very little room to spare.

For proper tension on both belts I'm still thinking abut that and have some ideas.

That's it for now.  It has been fun so far I hope you enjoy shade tree engineering like I do. 

I know this looks like a Badger's rear end, do I care? Nope.