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8:52 PM
November 10, 2011
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I am in my second semester of machining and I am in need of some more "useful" projects. I am looking for things I can make and use around the shop. Ex. Edge Finder plans (wobbler)
Things I have made so far:
(some from this site!)
Vise Stop (simple spring one)
Tap Handle
Spring Tap Guide
C-Clamp
Hammer
I am also looking for plans for a good fly tying vise!
PLEASE Help me out!
Thanks to everyone on this site for the projects posted!
Westy
11:24 PM
July 23, 2010
Offline
Adding to your hammer project, you could make a soft-face hammer. This would be a hammer with bored and tapped faces, and then then you would cast a bolt in some epoxy or other "soft" materials. Another interesting project would be some knockout-cutters (sometimes called "Greenlee" cutters), used for cutting large, often non-circular holes in sheet metal. Non-circular cutters (e.g., to cut a square or some other shaped hole) are really useful, and can be VERY expensive. The ones used to cut holes for computer connectors (particularly the trapezoidal ones) can run $90 for one. The project would require some hardening and tempering, so it might be of some interest. You also could make some reamers from 12L14.
-Chris
12:44 AM
January 9, 2009
Online
Please post some pictures of what you've made.
As for projects, are you unhappy with the projects that the school has provided you? Or have you finished them? Does your instructor not have any "advanced" projects?
As for the projects on this site, the ones I use the most in my shop are the spring center, the soft faced hammer, the tap handle, and the die holder. It sounds like you've made 2 of these, so I'd recommend the other two. You'll use them once you have them.
I've also made a slitting saw arbor, but I've never drawn it up and so I've never posted it here. It's really handy to have and easy to make. I made mine so that I could hold the arbor in the 3-jaw chuck. You could use a 4 jaw if you want to get anal about getting it perfect with zero runout and thus every tooth cutting – but it'll never be perfect. So I just use the 3 jaw and a few teeth don't touch due to runout. Note, I put shims (soda can or shim stock) between the jaws and the arbor to make sure I don't damage the arbor and cause future problems with runout.
If you don't want to hold it in your chuck jaws you could also make it so that it fits your lathe's spindle taper. However, it might be prudent to make a draw bar for it rather than rely on the taper itself, if it spins you'll likely gaul your spindle bore – which wouldn't be good.
As for the diameter of the arbor itself, just make it fit whatever slitting saws you have on hand. With my design it will fit any size (thickness) of saw I have on hand, which is really handy! So .015 fits just as well as a .050. However, I don't have a pin in mine to keep the blade from slipping so I've never used it on anything bigger than about .050 because I'm worried it would spin in the arbor and gaul the arbor. If I ever need to slit something bigger than .050 I might pin it or use a different setup.
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4:08 PM
November 10, 2011
Offline
I will post some photos, I have Fridays off however the shop is open for free time, FREE metal FREE time why not make all you can of it! My next weeks project is the die holder from this site. We do have advanced projects however that is for class time not free time. Also if interested I will post the hammer and clamp prints as well as a T-Slot cleaner. Saw looks dangerous! I think I have seen plans somewhere for one.
I have a Lexie deadblow soft faced hammer so no real need for another, maybe if I run out of things to make!
and I have a whole set of Greenlees from my previous job! company bought none the less!
Thanks for the Ideas!
1:32 AM
January 9, 2009
Online
Absolutely we'd be interested in any plans you have to share!
And yea, the saw arbor can be a bit dangerous if you aren't careful!
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