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5:34 PM
May 13, 2011
OfflineHi ALW, my interest level in the compound slide problem has got the best of me. I had to sideline my other project which is rather tedious needs more attention than I can provide at this time, so its off to see what can be done with the compound. I presume your question pertains the the compound slide issues.
I disassembled it this afternoon and measured all of the components. The first thing I noticed was that the bottom of the compound slide base (the part that mates with the graduated collar) is not parallel to the dovetail ways. The was a 0.004" difference at various points of reference. I put it on the rotary table and took a vary light cut, it is now with in 5 tenths all the way around.
I will do up some drawing tomorrow and make a new clamping ring and rebore the base to accept six socket head screws rather the three it originally had. My first effort will be to use the existing graduated ring, add the extra screws, make a four bolt clamping ring, and in general clean up the fitting of the various pieces. After I reassemble the compound slide I plan to take some deflection measurements, that way I will have something to compare the results to.
Jim
3:24 PM
May 13, 2011
OfflineThe following information and pictures may be of some help to those wanting to stiffen the compound slide assembly. After Bob posted his nice improvement I got interested in trying to improve my G0602, the performance when parting or doing heavy cuts never was what it should have been. I decided to start with Bob's very nice 4-bolt collar, I used 1/2" plate since that is all I had. I measured the compound slide base and found that the mating surface was 0.004 out of parallel with the ways. I put it on the rotary table and trued it up, when finished it was within 5 tenths all the way around.
Next I fabricated the new collar, again following Bob's design. The finished product is certainly heavier than the original.
Next I added three more socket head screws to the graduated collar assembly to stiffen what I felt was a significant weak link in the unit.
Using the rotary table to index to the proper location I drilled, counter drilled and tapped the three new holes. As a point of information the radius of the hole pattern is 25mm or 0.984". The screws are 6x1mm. The final assembly ready for installation.

I had originally planned to do some stress measurements. Despite my best efforts the results were ambiguous due to the number of moving parts. There is no question that this new assembly is much more rigid, my final test was to part of a piece of 1.250" 1018 at 350 RPM. It cut as though it were the proverbial hot butter.
I would like add one additional point for those who either do not wish to under take making a new collar or for those that would like an easier solution. Based on the measuring that I did complete I believe that if you added a third cap screw to the existing collar at a position of between 30 and 45 toward the operator from the right hand screw you would see a noticeable improvement. I did not test this fix but I did measure the flexing of the collar at this point which if you vector the force on the tool point this is, on the average, where the maximum lifting force is applied.
This drawing will show the dimensions that I used for the collar. I suspect that not all G0602's are the same so confirm your units sizes prior to proceeding.
Jim
3:34 PM
May 13, 2011
Offline6:02 PM
August 27, 2010
OfflineJim, Great job!! Much more professional than mine. Thanks a lot for taking my idea and running with it. I think that persons working together multiplies the amount of knowledge and results in great improvements. My present project is a flood coolant system on the cheap. I've developed mine and it works well I only have $8.00 in it in addition to what I had on hand. I will post some pix and description soon.
Bob
6:48 PM
January 19, 2012
Offline5:36 AM
May 13, 2011
Offline12:15 PM
January 9, 2009
OnlineThanks for the detailed pictures and drawing Jim! I've added this thread to the list of threads that I'd eventually like to feature on the home page.
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8:47 PM
March 4, 2012
OnlineGood thread and a nice work guys. I'm going to remember this one.
With respect to the swarf getting into the compound, I would think with a little bit of contemplation, one could come up with a felt ring that would cover the gap and keep most of the debris out. That or a waxed string like they used for seals in the olden days :) A piece of solder ( heavier gauge ) would alos push in fairly easy and form to the gap, yet slide well give that it's lead.
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