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6:57 AM
May 30, 2010
OfflineTyler said:
It's gotta be chalkboard chalk, I can't imagine using chalk line chalk – what a mess that would be! But I'll ask my buddy Barry just to make sure.
I'm glad you're enjoying the community, and I know what you mean about ego-free. I'm usually pretty nervious about asking a question on CNC Zone or other larger forums because sometimes the responses are from people trying to prove how smart they are rather than people trying to help the new guy. That's never fun at all.
Tyler, I find that soapstone chalk works and keeps my soapstone sharp for marking lines.
BTW, a dull file can be resharpened. Set it in a bath of hyrochloric acid to sharpen. Rinse off and try it after 15 minutes, if it needs more time throw it back in. I've heard pickling vinigar or battery acid works as well. Anything that etches steel….
I didn't know that, thanks for the tip!
Where do you get hydrochloric acid? A masonry/concrete supply store? What does the average home user need to know about safely storing it? Does it need to be stored in a glass container? Flamables cabinet?
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10:14 AM
April 16, 2010
Offline'Muratic acid' = hydrochloric acid, which shoule be available at any Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. I suspect that household bleach [weak hydrochloric acid] isn't strong enough to clean files like this, but then again, maybe it would be just right for toolmakers' filesfwhere you have small, shallow teeth vs. big mill and flat files?? I would think that after cleaning those files with any sort of hydrochloric acid that they would be HIGHLY prone to rusting, maybe by just looking at them? YMMV.
– Don
Wooly Mammoth said:
'Muratic acid' = hydrochloric acid, which shoule be available at any Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. I suspect that household bleach [weak hydrochloric acid] isn't strong enough to clean files like this, but then again, maybe it would be just right for toolmakers' filesfwhere you have small, shallow teeth vs. big mill and flat files?? I would think that after cleaning those files with any sort of hydrochloric acid that they would be HIGHLY prone to rusting, maybe by just looking at them? YMMV.
– Don
Ah, I knew that rang a bell. I actually have a jug of Muratic Acid from some concrete work I did a few years ago, but I didn't remember that it was also known by the name hydrochloric acid (my high school chemistry teacher would be saddened if he ever read this).
I used it (in a diluted form) to clean/etch some concrete boarders that I had put around my wife's flowerbeds. That answers my own question about storage, my bottle is plastic, so I guess you don't need to worry about storing it in a glass container. Thanks Don!
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8:35 PM
April 16, 2010
OfflineShould be added to the 'basic tool list' – an up-to-date tetnus shot. The thought came to me today as I scraped a steel splinter from my hand. Yeah, I seem to have enough surgeries, etc. that I've ALWAYS got a current tetnus booster in me… :)
Back in prehistoric times, I worked for a major manufacturer of large appliances – end mill maching, semi-automated wire welders, circle shears, draw and punch presses. I collected enough scrap steel in me to set off metal detectors… [not really - just seemed that way ] . I had steel slivers working their way to the surface for several years after leaving there.
BTW, the preferred method of the industrial nurses there to remove said steel splinters was usually not tweezers, [imagine a large, clumsey mammoth attempting to use tweezers... LMAO :)], but rather to use a scalpel to scrape across it. Usually that would draw it out. Since this was way back before the invention of ether, malpractice insurance, or even lawyers, don't know if it is still the preferred practice.
– Don " politically incorrect since 1947"
Wooly Mammoth said:
Should be added to the 'basic tool list' – an up-to-date tetnus shot. …
Agreed!
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4:39 PM
April 16, 2010
OfflineAnother addition to the 'basic tool list' – a vacuum cleaner for cleaning up machinery, swarf, etc… Doesn't have to be an actual 'shop vac' - Wnehever SWMBO gets a new one, I rotate the old one to the shop… A couple of Grandpa's lessons were, 'always clean up after working in the shop,' and 'always wipe down any hand tools you use before putting them away, and always put them away when you are done for the day.' As "Machinistschest" said, 'have a place for everything, and everything in its place.' That way you never A. lose a tool, B. hwaste time locating it, and C. Always begin with a clean tool. This also revolves in the 'Pride' factor he mentioned as well. Another Pro here cautioned against using compressed air to clean up machinery, embedding chips in ground surfaces, ways, etc. Can't recall who it was right now… but as always, the Pros are right…
Sometimes it seems like my most used 'shop tool' is that vacuum cleaner. :) And I will clean up the debris several times during a shop session rather than have a big mess at the end. Besides, a clean, relatively neat shop is safer, especially for half-blind Mammoths… :)
– Don 'Only a fool will abuse a tool' [ or a young Mammoth :) ]
5:56 PM
June 4, 2010
OfflineWell, I must add!
If your like me, one day you`re gonna get a metal chip in the ole eye, and it ain`t no fun. I can rember my first time, did I panic. It wasen`t so much that I had a metal in my eye but the fact that it was HOT! darn thing burned my eyeball, so being me, I started running around the shop like a chicken with its head cut off. I soon attracted the attention of the guy that owned the shop, close friend and very much admired, anyway, he asked me if I had a book of matches, hmm, well being the smoker that I was I just happen to have one. He sat me down in a chair,then plucked out a match from the book and with the fuzzzzy end of that match he removed that chip right out of my eye.I haven`t found any thing yet that will pick up the jaged edge of a chip like the fuzzy end of a match.
So needless to say, I keep a book of matches in the top of my box just close to the mirror in the lid just in case….MC
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