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8:24 PM
February 8, 2010
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My old shop teacher told us to always file left handed in the lathe; has worked for me for over half a century.
6:06 AM
April 16, 2010
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Appreciate the info, John. Thanks. <sigh > guess the Mammoth predates gunsmiths, even old-time ones :) only had to worry 'bout them pesky fling knappers with I was young… :):):)
Been doing most everything "left-handed" since the Cretacous :):):) but can 'go both ways' with a file :):):)
– Don WTB plans for a linseed oil drilling rig :):):)
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under
the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and
hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say,
'Oh sh–'
9:31 AM
February 8, 2010
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The very best "cold blue" that I have ever found (and I have tried them all) is Brownells 44-40.
The longest lived finish is imparted by "slow rust blue", such as Pilkington's, also available from Brownells. Much more work, but beautiful finish and will last for many years.
There are several option in electro-plating, such as Texas Electroplaters kits that will allow you to plate in copper, nickel, silver, gold.
Another option is "Parkerizing", which is a bit more complicated, but small parts can be finished in stainless steel pans obtainable from a restaurant supply.
A bead blaster is almost a necessity for a modern metalworking shop, as is a good compressor. I have several small compressors, such as those used with airbrushes that are available at specific machines for blowing away chips.NOTE: If yopu do not anoint your ways with "way oil" these chips blow away easily. If you want to apply oil to prevent oxidation between uses, wipe the ways down with a shop rag or paper towel before use. If you ever get a chance to observe in a professional machine shop, you will probably find that they keep their lathe ways dry, but cleaned of chips and cutting fluid between jobs.
11:59 AM
September 26, 2011
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Linseed oil/beeswax/shellac is available at woodworking stores as "friction polish". I use it for the pens I make. With a pen, you apply the finish somewhat liberally, and then use a cloth or paper towel (I use the auto part store blue ones) and hold it against the part to create friction. The friction creates heat, and melts the wax into the pores of the wood, as well as curing the shellac. Makes for a very smooth shiny surface.
Hand rubbing (like on a gun stock) would work, but be somewhat labor intensive. You have to get it hot to set up properly.
10:43 AM
January 18, 2012
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Tyler said:
I've been trying to think of a way to make a chess set using the same metal for both sides. I could do steel and brass so that they are different colors, but I didn't want them to be different weights.
I'd thought about using steel for both sides and blackening one set while leaving the other set shiny, but this would be an option too. I wonder how it would hold up to fingerprints? I remember my dad making an old rifle with a blued barrel – he always had to be very careful about fingerprints discoloring the bluing.
for'blueing' small metal parts,try the following.In a small tin can( a tuna can works)put enough of the dirtiest gasoline used engine oil you can find that will cover the part you want to 'blue'.Heat the part to sizzling hot(hot,but below dull red heat)dunk it in the oil.Take it out,and heat it again,do NOT clean it off,burn the oil off during heating.Heat and dunk as many times as nescessary to get the colour you want,usually 3 times will do it.This method works only on mild steel.It is not adviseable to use it on hardened parts,because of tempering issues.
3:06 PM
July 23, 2010
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This might be a "cheat", but you could blue one side and "straw yellow" the other, and then protect the finish with a thin coat of urethane or similar. The other option would be to use aluminum and anodize (aluminum pieces would not have the nice heft of steel).
-Chris
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