Hi Jim,

I'll defer to Barry regarding your first question. He's had a lot of students complete the project and I'm sure he'll have some sage advise for you. When I made the hammer I had the luxury of a taper attachment. However, I've used my compound to cut a morse taper, so I've done both. The difference is with the morse taper I had an existing taper to copy, which made it easy to set the compound at the correct angle. Since you don't have an existing hammer to copy, you'd need to use another method to carefully measure the angle of your compound.

As far as the knurling goes, you'll hear conflicting theories as to why/how you got a fine knurl from medium or coarse knurling wheels. I've been told that diameter can play a factor. As an interesting side note, my hammer also has a fine knurl produced by a medium knurling tool, but I kinda like it that way. It has a nice feel to it. But that doesn't answer your question.

On you next knurling project, press the knurling tool to the part with the lathe turned off. Make sure that both knurling wheels are pressing against the part and turn the part (by hand) two full rotations with the lathe off. You'll be able to see if your knurling wheels are lining up in the groves they made during the first rotation. If they don't line up back the knurling tool away from the part, move it over a half inch, and try again. Your first test will be wiped out by the knurling tool once you pass over it a few times and the knurl gets deeper.

Also, you should be able to post pictures now (I fixed it). So let's see your handywork!

Your handle looks great! And if that taper is off, I can't tell.

As far as the wife goes, I'm right there with you. Liz can't understand what all the fuss is about. But ya know, I'm the first person she calls when something needs fixed. So I think she appreciates my constant desire to learn new skills on those rare occasions where I get to use them to help around the house.

And to be honest, I don't get very excited when she shows me some of the things that she makes (crocheting, sewing, cooking, etc) so I guess it goes both ways.

Barry has a theory though, if I can somehow think of a project that Liz would think was useful … and convince her to spend some time in the shop making it … she just may develop an appreciation for the hobby. That's yet to be proven, but he might just be on to something.

If you get stuck on the threading just give a shout. We're here to help.

Parting can be tough until you get the hang of it.

First, make sure that your parting tool is sharp and exactly on centerline. Pinch a 6" scale between the tool and the part. If the top of the scale leans toward you the tip of the parting tool is set to low. If the top of the scale leans away from you the tool is too high. If the scale is exactly straight up and down then you're good.

Second, make sure that your parting tool doesn't stick out any further than it has to. The further it sticks out the more flex it has.

Next, use plenty of cutting fluid. For aluminum use something like A-9 Relton Aluminum Cutting Fluid.

With aluminum you can take a more aggressive cut, producing a thicker chip and reducing chatter. With steel it's a little harder.

And finally, make sure you remove the tailstock from the part before you part it off. If the part is held in the chuck with pressure from the tailstock, the part with bend and pinch the tool just before it is parted off – which can cause damage to the part, and possibly to you.

And lastly, if you can mount the parting off tool upside down and backwards on the back side of your cross slide that can also help. This orientation allows the chips to fall away rather than build up in the grove, and can make parting off easier. However, I'm not sure if your Atlas lathe has that ability.

Hi Jim,

I hope you don't mind, I edited your post so that the video was imbedded instead of a link. That way people can watch it from within this site.

Anyway, I wanted to drop you a quick line of encouragement before you thread tomorrow and give you the same wise advise I got just before I cut my first set of threads.

Take lots of light cuts, and several spring passes (light finish passes where you don't change the depth of the cut). You'll be amazed at how much the tool can flex, even with aluminum. But several spring passes will clean that up.

Also, your machine likely has a chart that shows that you can use odd numbers, even numbers, or some combination depending on the thread you're trying to cut. Take my advise – for your first attempt at cutting threads stick with the same number on the thread dial. Engage the half nut every time the number 1 goes by. You might find yourself waiting a bit longer between cuts, but you'll eliminate one variable by always using the same number on the thread dial. If you always start the thread on the same number, you can't mess it up.

If you get stuck, let me know. I'll be at a film festival for most of tomorrow, but I'll respond as soon as I can.

Good luck!