I started building this today so far all I've done is a little machining making the connecting rod. I'm using cast aluminum instead of bar stock. I need to get some small bolts for the rod's cap and going to change a few things just for the fun of it. So it may or may not work or get finished just something to mess around with.

I'll cast plates and blocks for all the aluminum parts and might use steel where it calls for cast iron. Got an old racing kart axle that should make a good cylinder,the cylinder calls for cast iron, the axle is 4140 steel. beats me if it will work? I'll keep an eye out for some cast iron just in case.

http://www.floridaame.org/Gall…..1h0106.htm

Here is some photos of my attempt at the rod for the hit and miss engine.

Here's the rod. I had a lot of mistakes making it, biggest one is drilling the bolt holes for the rod cap one hole is very crooked due to using my drill press which is not real precise, well that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Roughing out the rod

used the rotary table to cut both ends to profile well sort of.

I thought I'd throw this photo in. This is one of those Ikea Led lights mounted on a magnet mount from Harbor freight. The light is nice and bright plus it does not get hot to touch like the Halogen lights I made, so I'll make another magnet mount for the other one some day. The flexible shaft is very handy for putting the light right where you want it.

Tyler, the rod has mistakes. I used a razor saw to separate the cap from the rod doing it by hand I cut the cap at a slight angle, it just looks bad. I also drilled the rod bolts in my drill press and they are crocked again it shouldn't matter but to me it sucks. Plus the nuts on the bolts are possibly going to cause interference with the crank if I don't allow for that. I might hit the hardware store and see if they have some socket head bolts in that size. this will be the second engine I made, the first gas powered my first was a 3 cylinder air or steam engine it too looks rough. But it's fun to do.

 I got the Led lights at Ikea they are about $10.00 they come with a cast iron base the base is held on with 2 screws. I just made an adapter plate out of aluminum then mounted the base to the magnetic thing with one bolt. They work real nice and if your going to use one on your 3-D printer you probably could use it with out any mods. I have a stock one right beside the sander in the back ground. It looks like a black question mark.

I don't have the stock number anymore or I'd give you the number.

I did do the wrist pin and the crank pin in the mill so that should be good. I should have done the rod's cap bolt holes on the mill but didn't.

I would have cut the cap off of the rod in the mill, except I broke the slitting saw the first time I used it. I went a little too fast on a cut in aluminum and the blade went off line and it cracked . First time I tried the blade so it's a learning thing.

I spent today messing with the cheap rotary table(4" Grizzly). The surface isn't flat or true so I did some adjusting on it with the mill now it might work a little better.