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3:46 PM
December 19, 2011
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As requestedby Tyler in the new member section, here are some examples of my projects…
Here's a 5C collet closer for my Grizzly G4003.
Here's a bearing follower rest I built for my old Atlas 12". It's been modified to fit the Grizzly.
Here's a lathe dog driver for Lathes with a Camlock spindle.
Here's a carriage stop with indicator
Chuck workpiece spacers – 2 sizes:
A 5C Collet Stop
Cheers!
John
6:49 PM
January 9, 2009
Online
Nice work!
A collet closer, carriage stop, and improved follow & steady rests (bearings) are on my to-do list for my G0602 lathe.
Did you find it necessary to grind the collet adapter that slips into your spindle or did turing on the lathe result in a sufficiently concentric piece?
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6:56 PM
December 19, 2011
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I may have been lucky with my lathe as it does cut concentric within 0.0001". No grinding was necessary, but I did use carbide insert tooling for steel so as to get the best surface finish…
John
7:00 PM
January 9, 2009
Online
I've been putting off making one of my own because I don't have the ability to grind internal tapers at the moment. I have a dumore tool post grinder, but it's only set up for external operations. Good to know yours turned out so well. I might give it a try and see how close I can get it without grinding.
Anyway, thanks for sharing!
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8:24 PM
January 13, 2011
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John, pardon my ignorance, but what is a collet stop used for?
Thanks
Sammy
5:32 AM
September 26, 2011
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Making parts all to the same length.
12:36 PM
January 9, 2009
Online
Yea Sammy, you can use a stop on the inside of collet (ie a rod that fits through from the back and is adjustable) to ensure that each part extends the same depth into the body of the collet. Then you reliably can face the parts to all the same length.
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4:03 PM
December 19, 2011
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In practice you really get the same length +/- 0.005" or so… Here's why:
The datum (back of the collet) is acted upon by the drawbar when the collet is drawn in. So, unless you can repeatedly tighten the drawbar by EXACTLY the same amount, you will have to live with a slight amount of variability. The cam-over types of collet closer systems are a bit better in this regard than the hand wheel type (like mine)
Also, small diametral differences in the workpiece are exaggerated by the geometry and also end up, for a given retention force, as a axial position shift.
Nonetheless, the convenience of being able to bang out a number of parts within an expected tolerance, despite not being the best possible, sells it for me. Besides, +/- 0.005 is good enough for most things I would use the collet stop for.
Cheers,
John
4:11 PM
December 19, 2011
Offline
John, pardon my ignorance, but what is a collet stop used for?Thanks
Sammy
Sammy, perhaps the following additional photos will clear it up for you (which include ALL the collet stop parts):
John
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