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8:58 PM
November 11, 2010
OfflineI'm in the process of making a spindle lock. Below is the plans on the Yahoo group. They were made by one of the members there. It calls for crs for the parts. I don't have the 1/2"x1"x3" called for. So I got to looking and figured Cast iron should work for this. So I cut up a old B&S engine crank and using the counter weights part of the crank I'm whittling out the sizes shown. I'm getting some mill time anyway. I'm using a 1/2" 4 flute bit and around 700 rpms(faster than the recommended speed) it's cutting real nice I'm taking only around 0.025 per pass. I don't have a clue if I should cut deeper per pass or not so I think I'm going easy on the machine?
I think you have to join this group to view the plans, but they look nicely done, plus the whole fixture is inside of the head. A lever on the outside is pulled forwards and locks a block in the front pulley's teeth. It's spring loaded to retract. I like the looks of it better than the fixture that is sold and mounts on the top front of the mill. If you have this mill or one similar to it you might want to take a look it looks like good project. The only down side of it is if the thing would come loose or the spring beak and not retract and you start it up with the tooth engaged that wouldn't be very good.
http://finance.groups.yahoo.co…..k%20Plans/
9:10 PM
August 27, 2010
OnlineNorman:
I made a simple spindle lock for my G0619 that is in the spindle shield itself. I'll try to post a picture of it. I have some mods etc posted on youtube under robertdeanfoster. I just uploaded one tonight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v…..msET0D2Evs
Bob
9:54 PM
November 15, 2010
Offlinenorman said:
I'm in the process of making a spindle lock. Below is the plans on the Yahoo group.
I made one of these from the same plans, and it works well. It is an ingenious design. The length of the tooth turns out to be critical, but independent of everything else. That is, you can fearlessly make it too long, see if it will disengage (no), shave off a few thousandths, and try the fit again.
10:02 PM
November 11, 2010
OfflineThanks! Fenichel for that info that makes me feel better. I plan on using loctite and maybe threading the rod into the locking block instead of doing it with a set screw. I'll have to use something other than stainless steel for the shaft as I don't have any. I may use a rod from a old printer that may be stainless but I'm not sure just what it is made of? Thanks again for your quick answer.
Thanks Bob for your input too. I thought about drilling a hole in the spindle cover and inserting a rod to lock the spindle shaft but decided not to go that way.
11:08 AM
November 11, 2010
OfflineNeed some cast iron for a small project like I do for this spindle locking device? Here is my source for the cast iron a small B&S crankshaft. this should get me enough material and some extras like a small gear as used on the reverse tumbler gears for the G0602 lathe.
cutting up the crank is easy if you use a band saw here is one loped off counter weight. Which has been already milled some.

It was well over 1/2" thick I've machined it down to 0.545 and have about 0.045 to go to get it to the 0.500 thick called for in the plans.

The cast iron is over 3.00 long I need 3.00 inches in length and 1.00 tall by 0.500 thick so there's my part locked up in there just got to get it cut out.

The remaining cast iron will later be cut up into shafts/ small plate and that gear so it all will get used for projects.

The only hard part is holding it to cut it up, I haven't found any hard lumps in the cast iron so far it machines nicely.
I've thrown away many of these old cranks now that I have a use for them I'll just cut them up and reuse them. this material should be good for projects using cast iron as long as the parts needed are not too big.
12:08 PM
November 11, 2010
OfflineThis is the link to the collet holder that you will need to figure out a way other than the supplied spindle locking tool that comes with the mill on how to lock the spindle to insert the holding tool or remove the tool. If you have a strap wrench your in luck, I don't have a strap wrench and I'm not going to use a pipe wrench on the spindle. So a spindle lock will maybe something you will want to make real soon for you mill.
http://www.grizzly.com/product…..Set/T10067
9:22 PM
November 11, 2010
Offlinesome of the work done today on the spindle lock
the cast iron is milled square and the holes drilled

here the slot has been milled and the radius done on the end.

rough cut out of the block for the locking tooth

the smaller block has been squared up, it fits nice in the slot. Now to the hardware store to get the bolts for this. I even have the steel rod for the lever, it came out of a worn out printer. I don't know if it is stainless or not but it is nice and shiny might be chrome plated 5/16" in dia should work fine. All that needed is bolts a knob and work done on the mills housing, oh yea I need to find a spring.

9:35 PM
November 11, 2010
Offline10:08 PM
November 11, 2010
Offline
the lock is behind the pulley not much room but everything clears

My dirty hand testing out the lever it works good now to put the mill all back together and do something besides building tools. This was a very well designed lock and it worked the first try I didn't need to fiddle with it at all.
Cast iron is nasty to machine but it's what I had to work with. The plans called for cold rolled steel either metal works the steel shouldn't get you quite as dirty. I got the shoulder bolt at Fastenal and the knob at the hardware store. I just happened to have a spring from an old sewing machine that worked. I spent less then $10.00 for materials.
Follow the drawings and it works very good!!

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