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Shop Tip: Quick and Easy Lathe Gearbox Oil Change - Without all the Mess
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Tags: Shop Tips
October 11, 2010
11:35 AM
TylerYoungblood
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It came time for me to change the oil on my Grizzly G0602 10×22 lathe and I was dreading it. For one thing, I couldn't find the correct oil called for in the manual. I called every local lube shop I could find in the yellow pages, but nobody carried anything close. Finally someone suggested I try Enco, and sure enough they had what I was looking for. Here's what I ordered for my gearbox (left) and lathe ways (right).

I waited until Enco had a "free shipping" promotion to order the oil and a few other heavy items that were unrelated to the oil change. If you're planning on getting a granite surface plate it might be a good time to order …

Next came the fun part, actually changing the oil. I had no idea how much oil the gearbox held, so I ordered a gallon of oil. Turns out I've got enough gearbox oil to last my little lathe a lifetime of use.

How much does the gearbox on a Grizzly G0602 hold you ask? About 9 ounces give or take. How many ounces in a gallon? 128. I can get 14 oil changes out of my gallon of DTE Heavy/Medium oil. If anyone has any suggestions for other uses for this oil please let me know. I've used it as a cutting fluid and it provides a reasonable finish on steel and aluminum. So maybe that's how I'll use it up. It's too thick for the ways, and besides, I've got a gallon of way oil also!

On to the "Shop Tip" portion of this post. I remember reading somewhere (perhaps in one of my recent metalworking magazines) where someone had used soda cans to make a trough to guide the oil from the drain plug out past the chip tray during an oil change. It worked great!

You can see the 9 ounces of oil filling a disposable baking sheet. Later I poured the oil into a clean dry water bottle so I could transport it to a recycling center. Here's how the color of the darker old oil (right) compared to the color of the lighter new oil (left).

The new oil is a bit lighter in color but otherwise seems identical in viscosity. I also didn't see any evidence of shavings or metal debris in the drained oil – which suggests all my gears are meshing properly.

The drain plug wasn't magnetic and I felt that adding a magnet would be a quick and easy improvement to the lathe. So I cleaned the oil from the plug thoroughly (using naptha and then rubbing alcohol) and secured a small magnet using 2-part epoxy.

I roughed up the mating surfaces of the plug and the magnet using a file to give the epoxy something other than a smooth surface to adhere to. After 30 minutes the drain plug was ready to be reinstalled. The purpose of the magnet is to attract any (ferrous) metal shavings and pull them out of the circulating gearbox oil.

Now, if your lathe uses aluminum (non-ferrous) gears this addition would be of limited benefit since non-ferrous metals aren't attracted to magnets. I'm not sure if the G0602 has aluminum or steel gears, but I added the magnet just in case.

Next it was time to refill the gearbox with the new oil.  The fill hole is located on the side of the lathe so its hard to use a funnel. The solution was to use the same aluminum can trough to refill the gearbox.

I filled a clean 10 ounce container with about 9 ounces of oil and used it to fill the gearbox (this seemed like a better method than trying to pour 9 ounces directly from the gallon jug – I'm not good at eyeballing fluids). I knew 9 ounces came out, so I didn't want to put any more than 9 ounces back in. Remember, since the oil is thick it takes a while for it to register correctly in the sight glass.

After adding the 9 ounces I let things settle for about 30 minutes and then I rechecked the sight glass. The oil registered just above the red "full" line. All that was left to do was to replace the fill plug and I was done!

Note, there's one additional tip that I came across. The drain and fill plugs are normal 3/8″ pipe thread. That means you can replace the fill plug with a 3/8″ street elbow to make it easier to fill using a regular funnel. Here's a picture from Crevice Reamer showing this handy upgrade.

You can buy a 3/8″ street elbow from any hardware store. They are $2 at Home Depot.

If anyone has any other handy tips to share please leave a comment on the forum topic linked to this post (via the link below). And if anyone has any additional uses for the other 119 ounces of gearbox oil I've got left over please let me know!

October 11, 2010
12:35 PM
Titaniumboy
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October 10, 2010
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Tyler,

Very nice (and timely ! ) writeup.

I have an oil pump similar to the one shown below.  It fits a quart bottle and has a flexible hose that you could put into the gearbox fill hole.  I"ll probably use this to refill my gearbox with oil.

http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube…..amp;sr=8-7

 

 

Did you ever open up the gearbox and clean it out during your initial break-in?

October 11, 2010
1:49 PM
Tyler
Seattle, WA
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Nope, I never opened the gearbox. The oil seemed pretty clean when I changed it. No debris or metal shavings so I didn't see the need to clean anything out. 

I've got a pump like that for when I change the oil in the lower unit on my outboard boat motor. I never thought about using it for the gearbox. I'm not sure how you'll be able to accurately measure the 9 ounces with it, but other than that it looks like it would be a good alternative to my chepo soda can trough. Wink

NOTE: I work full time and I'm attending college full time as well. So if it takes me a few days to respond, please don't take it personally. If it's urgent please send me a Private Message.
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October 13, 2010
5:23 PM
Dale
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Nice write up Tyler,

I had an idea maybe worth exploring, I have found Laboratory wash bottles, the squeeze kind, to be useful around my shop for cutting oil, cold blue solution, cleaning solvents, etc.  That may be a viable way to refill the gear box.  The volume would be easy to "guesstimate".  Fill and squeeze.  The only caveate may be if the oil is too thick, you could have a tired hand.

Dale

October 14, 2010
8:03 AM
Fabrickator
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Tyler, I see where you put a 90* fitting on (good idea).  Most of the time when they put a fill hole in the side of something like this, you just fill it till it comes out.  After filling yours w/ the proper amount, could you see anything in the 90*? Not that I have one, but I was just curious.  Of course, then there is the issue quality control to consider.  Overfilling gearboxes & over greasing bearings can cause overheating.

You can walk with a wooden leg but you can't see with a glass eye. Always use Eye Protection!
October 28, 2010
11:12 AM
Tyler
Seattle, WA
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Hey Fabricator, I missed your reply. Sorry it's taken a while to answer.

I didn't need to fill the gearbox all the way up. I couldn't see the oil through the fill hole, only through the sight glass. If I had kept filling until I could see the oil through the fill hole I would have overfilled the gearbox, which as you mentioned wouldn't be a good idea.

On a funny side note, the first time my sister changed her oil on her '74 Nova she asked her "experienced" girlfriend over to help her. Her friend was experienced because she was taking Auto Shop in High School … but apparently she didn't pay attention when they tought her how to change a cars oil. She told my sister to keep pouring quarts in until she could see the oil level through the hole in the valve cover. After she ran out of the 5 quarts dad had brought home for her, she rummaged in the garage until she found another gallon of oil that my dad had purchased for his next oil change on his diesel. 9.5 quarts later her engine was "full" of oil. Luckily her Nova wouldn't start after being crammed full of oil and she asked dad for help. He quickly discovered their mistake when he saw all the empty oil containers scattered about!

NOTE: I work full time and I'm attending college full time as well. So if it takes me a few days to respond, please don't take it personally. If it's urgent please send me a Private Message.
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October 28, 2010
11:16 AM
Tyler
Seattle, WA
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Dale said:

….. I have found Laboratory wash bottles, the squeeze kind, to be useful around my shop for cutting oil, cold blue solution, cleaning solvents, etc.  ..


That's a great idea Dale, I've been using a cheap bottle for my way oil that has a brass tip, but the tip keeps getting clogged with green gunk – presumably the coper is reacting with the oil and things clog up as the oil evaporates and thickens at the tip. I bet a plastic bottle would eliminate the problem. Thanks for the tip!

NOTE: I work full time and I'm attending college full time as well. So if it takes me a few days to respond, please don't take it personally. If it's urgent please send me a Private Message.
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November 3, 2010
7:25 AM
Fabrickator
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Tyler, that's funny on the overfilled engine.  Lucky it never started or it would have pumped it all over the place and ruined the seals.  As an "expertienced" autotmotive mechanic, I remember re-filling my raised Dodge 4x4 on a step ladder with five quarts…before noticing that I forgot to re-install the drain plug.  Talk about a mess!!

The ramp idea is great for filling or draining odd location or hard to reach areas.  I have one that I made out of a short length of aluminum raingutter trimed/shaped to a "V" bottom and tapered at one end for an antifreeze gallon bottle.  I should have had it under the Dodge Surprised

You can walk with a wooden leg but you can't see with a glass eye. Always use Eye Protection!
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