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Sticky pin.
February 10, 2012
8:03 AM
swarfie
Northern Alberta
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this is a device that was used when I was a machinist,for quick location on a Milling machine.You need………a small piece of plasticene,the type that kids play with(don't know about playdough,never used it,it was'nt in use back then)and a pin.The pin you should make yourself.Chuck a piece of rod in the lathe,and file and polish it to a point,cut off about an inch long.

How to use it.:

                   You wan't to drill a hole in a component on your mill,you have coated your component with marking fluid,and marked it out with scribe marks.Stick you plasticene with the pin in it on the bottom of your drill chuck.Start your machine on medium speed.With your 6inch steel rule(which every machinist should have on his person,or right handy)use the edge of your rule to manouver the pin untill the point spins with no wobble.Use your X and Y axis hand wheels to manouver the point of your sticky pin over  the midlle of you scribe marks,and you have quickly located your centre point.

                                                                 Back then,wind up gramaphones were still around,and you could still get gramaphone needles for them,these were much sought after,as we found they made the best needles for a sticky pin.I had tried using a sewing pin,and found it no good,it was'nt substantial enough.the ideal pin should be about one sixteenth of an inch in diameter.You can use this device on the bottom of an end mill,but I found it did'nt work well on the bottom of a twist drill. 

February 18, 2012
5:50 PM
Tyler
Seattle, WA
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I've heard of this before, but I've never seen it done. I'll check YouTube to see if anyone has made a video of the process. I understand the process, but it would still be useful to see a video of the process in action for others who might have trouble visualizing it. 

I was thinking a regular straight pen (found in the wife's sewing drawer) would work just fine, but you said you'd need something more substantial. Why exactly doesn't a straight pen (the kind with the round plastic head) work? It's just to flexible?

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February 26, 2012
10:14 AM
swarfie
Northern Alberta
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Tyler said:

I've heard of this before, but I've never seen it done. I'll check YouTube to see if anyone has made a video of the process. I understand the process, but it would still be useful to see a video of the process in action for others who might have trouble visualizing it. 

I was thinking a regular straight pen (found in the wife's sewing drawer) would work just fine, but you said you'd need something more substantial. Why exactly doesn't a straight pen (the kind with the round plastic head) work? It's just to flexible?

Tyler,it's a similar principle to a 'wobbler'.The old gramaphone needles were more substantial in the shank to a pin,When I tried using a pin,I found the length of it,and  the insubstantiality of the shank to affect how it works.obviously,when the pin is in the plasticene,it extremely unlikely that the point will spin concentrically,that is where the 6ins. rule comes in.With the machine on,you touch the edge of the rule to the spinning pin,about a quarter inch fron the tip,and gently manouver the tip untill it spins concentrically. it is easy to see when the pin is spinning absolutely concentrically,once it is,it can be set so that it is really close to the work.When the point is set as described,it is easy to locate centre punch marks,and crossed scribe lines accurately,you don't need to measure,you don't need to memorise settings,it's simply  a matter of positioning the point over the marked positions,using the londitudinal and latitudinal traverse wheels.As the   pin is attached to the endmill,or drill chuck,and spinning concentrically,wherever the pin tip points to,will be the centre of the spinning cutter,or chuck.As the saying goes'a picture is worth a thousand words',it is not easy to describe an action with words,especially to someone who has never carried out that action,I hope this description has clarified this procedure somewhat.To set up the pin,start the mill slow,and increase the speed untill you can see that the pin is spinning fast enough to be set with the rule,a simple matter for a mill with electronic speed control.

                                                                                                                      Swarfie(Tony)

                             

February 26, 2012
10:22 AM
swarfie
Northern Alberta
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Tyler said:

I've heard of this before, but I've never seen it done. I'll check YouTube to see if anyone has made a video of the process. I understand the process, but it would still be useful to see a video of the process in action for others who might have trouble visualizing it. 

I was thinking a regular straight pen (found in the wife's sewing drawer) would work just fine, but you said you'd need something more substantial. Why exactly doesn't a straight pen (the kind with the round plastic head) work? It's just to flexible?

Sadly,as an 'old fart',Im not computer literate enough,nor have the equipment to make videos and post them on 'you tube',so little time,so much to learn…………….

                                                                Swarfie.

February 26, 2012
11:15 AM
Jerry
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I'll make a vid for this, it's a way I use. One important thing is the stuff used to stick the pin is best if it's not elastic, i.e. chewing gum would be less good, Plasticene is ideal.

February 26, 2012
2:38 PM
Jerry
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Here you go: 

As you'll see I use regular dressmaking pins, ones with larger heads. I agree that making your own is better, I have to search through the good lady wife's sewing box for straight pins, and few are straight enough. If you can include that little head though it would be good, as I find the pin is more stable with these as the head makes it's own socket to move in, rather than opening up a slot alone which can have them fall out.

Warm your Plasticene before use if it's not pliable enough.

For alternatives I've heard of people using blue Tac, I've not tried it though. And if you're into Bonsai, non hardening cut sealing paste is excellent.

 

Edit: Stuck it on YouTube:

 

 

February 26, 2012
4:30 PM
harborfreight8x12
Lake Charles, Louisiana, USA
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Very informative.  The video explaines everything.

Regards, Al

February 26, 2012
4:41 PM
swarfie
Northern Alberta
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Jerry said:

Here you go: 

As you'll see I use regular dressmaking pins, ones with larger heads. I agree that making your own is better, I have to search through the good lady wife's sewing box for straight pins, and few are straight enough. If you can include that little head though it would be good, as I find the pin is more stable with these as the head makes it's own socket to move in, rather than opening up a slot alone which can have them fall out.

Warm your Plasticene before use if it's not pliable enough.

For alternatives I've heard of people using blue Tac, I've not tried it though. And if you're into Bonsai, non hardening cut sealing paste is excellent.

 

Edit: Stuck it on YouTube:

 

 

Thank you Gerry,I think I did a pretty fiair job of describing a sticky pin and it's use,but your video blew it away.

                                          Swarfie.

February 26, 2012
4:49 PM
swarfie
Northern Alberta
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Jerry said:

I'll make a vid for this, it's a way I use. One important thing is the stuff used to stick the pin is best if it's not elastic, i.e. chewing gum would be less good, Plasticene is ideal.

One thing I found with plasticene,it did'nt seem to be much affected by any oil,or cutting lubricants that were around,other materials tended to disintegrate.

February 27, 2012
10:59 AM
Jerry
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It's petroleum based, so you'd think oils would be a solvent for it, but it does seem to be resistant. The name 'Plasticene', or could be 'Plasticine' is a trade name owned by a UK company, but it's become a generic name really. In fact the one I use is called 'Newplast', and is made about twenty miles from me.

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