by Gareth Bellringer

Do you have trouble turning to a shoulder? Do you long for an easy way of repeating where you stop the carriage?

If you answered yes to either one of these, you could need a carriage stop.

Here is what mine looks like.

This was made from a block of aluminium which is 51×26.3x22mm

To machine the contour of the lathe Vee, I mounted the stock in a vice at an angle.

I also made:

A Clamp plate.

This is the locking screw, for the adjustable stop, it is made from stainless steel, and is threaded M5

This is the adjustable stop, it is made from some sort of steel, and measures 74mm in length, the thick bit is 17.5×7.8 and the remainder is 6.8mm in diameter.

On the bottom of the clamp is two nubs that act as a lever for the clamping plate, they measure 4mm in diameter and protrude by 3mm. These were made by drilling two 3x4mm holes, and then gluing two 4x6mm aluminium dowels in.

Lets talk about the main body, on the top side it has two countersunk holes, for two M6 screws. it doesn’t matter where these go really however I shall, draw a proper plan for them.The larger hole is 10mm and the smaller is a clearance hole 7mm.

On the side of the stop is a hole, 7mm in diameter to take the adjustable stop.

On the back of the stop there is a hole, tapped m5 to take the adjustable stop screw.

There is a bit of extra space, if you wanted to put a micrometer, or make a multiple stop disk. That shouldn’t be too hard.

  Lathe_Carriage_Stop_by_Gareth_Bellringer.pdf (319.7 KiB, 159 hits)
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Thanks for reading.

By Gareth Bellringer About the Author

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I’m sure many of you have already seen the “captive nut” in one form or another. I came across it a few years ago and forgot all about it until it showed up on the forum recently.

Here’s Gareth Bell’s Captive Nut:

And here’s another version by Jerry:

It’s a great project for the beginner for a couple of reasons, but mostly because it allows you to practice single-point threading. Once you’re done you’ve got quite the conversation piece that will puzzle and entertain kids and adults alike.

For more information (including links with directions on how to make your own) visit the original forum post by Gareth.

by Glenn W.

Material: Steel

Units: (in)

This Craftsman-style circle cutter is designed to be used in a standard Drill Press or Vertical Milling Machine only.

It is designed for cutting 1″ to 6″ diameter holes in sheet metal, brass, copper, plastic, wood, or other composite materials. You can also cut 1″ to 6″ diameter circular disks or wheels. This tool is only recommended for material thicknesses of 1/8″ or less.

Some examples of practical uses for this tool are:

• Cutting holes in automotive dash panels to fit around gauges.
• Cutting holes in sheet metal where hoses will pass through
• Cutting wheels for toys.
• Cutting round discs in aluminum for making fly-fishing reels.
• Practical uses are endless …

This tool is fully adjustable for cutting diameters from as small as approximately 1″ to as large as approximately 6″.

By simply grinding the proper angles and reliefs on standard 1/4″ HSS tool bits you can cut perfect holes or round discs, depending on the orientation of the tool bit cutting edge.

The attached set of drawings and assembly plans are based on a Sears Craftsman tool, model #25293 (pictured above). However, the design, dimensions, and components have been modified for improved performance and safety.

Proper cutting speeds, cutter relief angles, etc. will need to be established and adjusted according to the job at hand and the material being cut.

Important Notes:

• Speed of drill press or milling machine should NOT exceed 500 RPM when using this cutter.
• Always wear safety glasses when using this tool.
• Use of cutting oil or coolant will greatly improve cutter performance when cutting metals.
• Not recommended for materials thicker than 1/8″.

  Circle_Cutter_Plans.pdf (321.1 KiB, 651 hits)
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