Here’s a quick tip to bring in the new year. A novel way to remove a stripped or stubborn machine screw using a vise.
The idea is simple, a stripped screw tends to lead to problems with the screwdriver “camming out”. To prevent this, pinch the screw and the screwdriver (or in this case, the screwdriver bit or “blade”) between the jaws of a vise. Keep the jaws just tight enough to prevent the screwdriver from camming out as it turns. As the screw starts to rotate, loosen the jaws slightly to allow for it to extract.
Here’s a quick video of the process in action.
In situations where it’s hard to grip the handle of the screwdriver (because it’s in a vise) I recommend using a screwdriver with a square or hex shank so you can get a wrench on it for leverage, or use a bit or blade like I show in the picture and video. Don’t try vise grips on a round shank screwdriver, you’ll just muck it up. Some screwdrivers have a round shank with hex portion (called a “hex bolster”) where the shank meets the handle. This little hex bolster is ideal for getting a little extra leverage when needed.
Screwdrivers with a hex bolster come in handy more often than you might think … if you remember to use it! I’ve started replacing all my cheap, damaged, or worn out screwdrivers with better ones that have a hex bolster near the handle. Here’s a nice set on Amazon by Klein (click image).
There are obviously other methods of removing a stripped screw. Two of which have already been mentioned in responses to this video on YouTube. For instance, one viewer suggested cutting a slit in the head of the stripped screw to use a flat blade screwdriver, while another viewer suggested using an impact wrench (or the impact setting on a cordless drill) which I have used with great success also.
Lets see how many other ways we can think of to remove a stripped screw. If you have a method, please leave it via a comment on the forum (see link below).
This Craftsman-style circle cutter is designed to be used in a standard Drill Press or Vertical Milling Machine only.
It is designed for cutting 1″ to 6″ diameter holes in sheet metal, brass, copper, plastic, wood, or other composite materials. You can also cut 1″ to 6″ diameter circular disks or wheels. This tool is only recommended for material thicknesses of 1/8″ or less.
Some examples of practical uses for this tool are:
Cutting holes in automotive dash panels to fit around gauges.
Cutting holes in sheet metal where hoses will pass through
Cutting wheels for toys.
Cutting round discs in aluminum for making fly-fishing reels.
Practical uses are endless …
This tool is fully adjustable for cutting diameters from as small as approximately 1″ to as large as approximately 6″.
By simply grinding the proper angles and reliefs on standard 1/4″ HSS tool bits you can cut perfect holes or round discs, depending on the orientation of the tool bit cutting edge.
The attached set of drawings and assembly plans are based on a Sears Craftsman tool, model #25293 (pictured above). However, the design, dimensions, and components have been modified for improved performance and safety.
Proper cutting speeds, cutter relief angles, etc. will need to be established and adjusted according to the job at hand and the material being cut.
Important Notes:
Speed of drill press or milling machine should NOT exceed 500 RPM when using this cutter.
Always wear safety glasses when using this tool.
Use of cutting oil or coolant will greatly improve cutter performance when cutting metals.
Not recommended for materials thicker than 1/8″.
Circle_Cutter_Plans.pdf (321.1 KiB, 651 hits) NOTE: You need to be a registered member (and logged in) to download this file. You can register or log in using the "Log In" section located in the upper left corner of the site (don't worry, it's free to register and your email address will be kept private). Please note, subscribing to the RSS feed is not the same as registering. Also, registering for the site will grant you forum access, allowing you to log into the forum using the same username and password you used to register for the site.
I was a skeptic. As were two of my friends who have over 50 years of machining experience between them. But now I’m a believer. As for my friends? Read on …
A few months ago I contacted Gary Sneesby from Eccentric Engineering to see if I could write a review of their Diamond Tool Holder. I had heard great things about tangential tool holders, but I was still a bit skeptical and didn’t know quite what to expect.
The tool took about 10 days to arrive, which I thought was fast considering it came all the way from Australia to Seattle. You can also buy the Diamond tool holder from a local UK or US distributor (see the Eccentric Engineering website for details). Either way the tool is about the same price, but you might get it quicker and pay a bit less for shipping if you order from your local distributer.
The tool comes with a the tool holder, an allen key, a quality HSS tool bit (8% Cobalt), the grinding jig, and full color instructions with pictures to hang by your grinder.
So, how well does it work? Exceptionally well!
Here’s why I think this tool is great for the beginner:
It’s very easy to grind using the included jig.
It produces an exceptional finish. I consistently get as good (or better) a finish using the diamond tool holder than I get using a properly ground HSS tool bit.
It’s very rigid allowing for deeper cuts. I can take cuts of about .015-.025 deep on my small lathe using a conventional HSS tool bit, but I can remove nearly twice as much with the diamond tool holder (.030 to .050) depending on the material I’m cutting – without chatter!
The grinding jig can be used to easily grind 55 and 60 degree threading tools for use with the diamond tool holder.
Eccentric Engineering has a promotional video that they put together that shows all the features of their diamond tool holder. The video seems a little dated, but it’s well done and worth watching.
They show the tool being used on a larger lathe where they take very deep cuts (as much as .100 at a time). I wasn’t able to achieve cuts that aggressive, but I have a much smaller, less rigid lathe in my home shop than what they used in their video. And since many of you have a lathe similar in size to my 10×22, I thought I’d make my own video showing the results I was able to achieve, and therefor the results you should be able to expect with a similar sized lathe.
My video is a bit long (sorry) so if you get impatient just make sure you watch the last 2 or 3 minutes where I show how well the tool cuts cast iron.
My overall impression is a positive one. The tool is well made and of excellent quality. I really do get exceptional results with it. As to the grinding jig, my first impression was that it was a bit wonky with its use of a cap screw to adjust the angle for grinding a threading tool. But after using it I realized that it’s not wonky at all. But rather a simple and elegant solution.
Using the grinding jig is as advertised – extremely simple to do. And the bit seems to hold an edge longer than my hand ground HSS tool bits do. In fact, I’ve been using the original bit for a few months now on Steel, aluminum, brass, bronze, and cast iron and I haven’t needed to re-grind it yet (although I have touched it up occasionally with a diamond hone). Initially I was concerned that the one-size-fits-all approach with the 12 degree rake and relief angles would be very effective on some meals, but less effective on others. After all, a HSS tool bit properly ground for steel has slightly different rake and relief angles than one ground for aluminum or brass. Right? But it turns out that 12 degrees is a very good compromise across all the metals I’ve tried so far.
I don’t have anything negative to say about the diamond tool holder from Eccentric Engineering. It performs as advertised and has exceeded my expectations. In fact, I am planning on purchasing a second one so that I’ll have one tool holder for a square bit and one for a round bit. I tend to switch back and fourth between a round and square bit a lot depending on the job, so it would be nice to have a dedicated quick change tool holder for each pre-set to centerline.
As for my two friends with over 50 years of machining experience? They were impressed too. They haven’t bought their own yet, but then again they get a kick out of grinding their own HSS tool bits and drills. They were convinced that a properly ground HSS bit would give better results than the diamond tool holder.
So I challenged one of them to grind a fresh HSS bit for steel and put their grinding skills to the test. The result? The finish was comparable but the chips coming off of the diamond tool holder were smaller and took more of the heat with them (turning a darker blue) than the chips from the hand ground HSS bit. The lathe (a restored Atlas) also seemed to labor less using the diamond tool holder, and deeper cuts were possible without chatter. I should give credit here to my friend Barry, his HSS bit did produce a similar finish. But he still spent a few minutes grinding it to shape. At least twice as long as it takes to grind one using the diamond tool holder jig.
So if you’re one of those guys that thinks he can grind a drill bit just as good by hand as someone using a professional drill sharpening machine (and I’m not talking Drill Doctor results, I’m talking DAREx) than stick with grinding your HSS tool bits by hand. But for everyone else, I’d highly recommend the diamond tool holder from Eccentric Engineering! You won’t regret it.
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Circle_Cutter_Plans.pdf (321.1 KiB, 651 hits)
